Visitando Azerbaijão: O que ver e fazer, incluindo itinerários

Publicado: 08/06/18 | 6 de agosto de 2018

Não me lembro da primeira vez que ouvi sobre o Azerbaijão, mas sempre me rendeu um fascínio exótico para mim. Azerbaijão – Até o nome parece exótico – um lugar de … bem, eu não sabia o quê. Parecia atraente e fora do caminho batido. Eu sabia duas coisas sobre o Azerbaijão antes de visitar: venceu o concurso de músicas do Eurovision em 2011 e tem muito dinheiro do petróleo.

Foi somente nos últimos anos que comecei a pensar seriamente em visitar.

Mas os anos se passaram sem nenhum progresso em direção a esse objetivo – até junho deste ano, quando, por um capricho, fui lá com um amigo. Tínhamos encontrado um voo barato de Londres, então fomos lá! Muitas vezes, é tudo o que é necessário para acabar em algum lugar.

O Azerbaijão combinou com minhas expectativas: Baku era uma cidade moderna mergulhada em dinheiro a petróleo com um metrô recém-construído, Wi-Fi Fast e toneladas de edifícios de estilo parisiense e futuristas, enquanto o resto do país era excepcionalmente rural com pequenas cidades cercadas por impressionantes Montanhas e terras agrícolas. Em pequenas aldeias, homens velhos com bastões estavam sentados em quadrados da cidade olhando para os transeuntes. O velho Babushkas com as costas dobradas e as cabeças cobertas com lenços passavam por mantimentos, para fazer pratos para a família.

Um visto para o Azerbaijão custa US $ 25. Você precisa obtê -lo de antemão e pode se inscrever on -line. Demora três dias para processar (se você pagar US $ 30 adicionais, poderá obter um em três horas). Você pode ficar no país por até dez dias antes de precisar se registrar na polícia e fornecer um endereço de onde está hospedado (você só precisa de um endereço e não precisa ficar lá a visita inteira). Muitos hotéis e albergues ajudarão você a fazer isso. Depois de se registrar, você obterá os 30 dias completos no país que seu visto permite.

Mas, honestamente, você realmente não precisa de 30 dias para visitar o Azerbaijão. De fato, até duas semanas completas seriam um pouco exageradas. Baku é legal e pode proporcionar alguns dias divertidos, mas fora da cidade, realmente não há muito o que fazer além de caminhar e passear por algumas aldeias fofas. É verdade que isso é incrível, mas se você não estiver em grandes caminhadas de vários dias, provavelmente ficará entediado rapidamente.

O que ver e fazer em Azerbijian: itinerário de uma semana

Dia 1 – Baku

Antes da descoberta do petróleo, Baku era uma pequena cidade sonolenta passada pelo mundo. Depois que o petróleo foi descoberto em 1846, a cidade cresceu: grandes avenidas e edifícios foram construídos para imitar Paris, enquanto as riquezas de nouveaux amavam todas as coisas francesas. A cidade cresceu até o início do século XX antes das guerras mundiais subsequentes e da política soviética empurraram -a do cenário mundial. Agora, graças em parte ao Eurovision e muito dinheiro do petróleo, Baku é uma mistura de seu núcleo antigo, os vizinhos bairros do estilo parisiense do século XIX e a ampla cidade moderna com seus edifícios futuristas, expandindo para fora.

No seu primeiro dia aqui, passeie pela cidade velha. Visite o palácio dos Shirvanshahs, construído no século XV e inclui uma mesquita, casa de banho e mausoléu, bem como a popular torre donzela com suas excelentes vistas da cidade. (Curiosidade: eles ainda não têm idéia do que essa torre foi construída.)

Posteriormente, faça uma excursão a pé de cortesia com a excursão de cortesia de Baku e depois aprecie o Museu do Carpetes do Azerbaijão (o país é popular para a criação de carpetes) e o Museu Nacional de História, que tem muitos artefatos e alguns sinais que lhe darão um entendimento respeitável da história do Azerbaijão.

Onde ficar em Baku: Sahil Hostel – Este albergue tem camas confortáveis, uma grande área comum e chuveiros extraordinários (eles até têm sprays de massagem). A equipe não é tão amigável, mas sua localização e instalações centrais, bem como a facilidade em que você pode conhecer outros viajantes, compensar seu comportamento azedo.

Dia 2 – Baku

No seu segundo dia, passeie muito mais pela cidade, faça outro passeio a pé de cortesia, tenha prazer em uma aula de culinária, passeie pelo encantador calçadão ao longo do mar Cáspio e explore o Upland Park, que usa ótimas vistas de Baku também , como é o ponto mais alto da cidade. Há um funicular que vai para cima se você quiser evitar as escadas. Esteja avisado: as horas de operação do funicular mudam sem aviso prévio. Aqui você também encontrará a pista dos mártires, um cemitério e memorial dedicado aos mortos na Segunda Guerra Mundial e na Guerra de Nagorno-Karabakh.

Além disso, nas proximidades são as populares e famosas torres de chama. Construídos em 2012, eles têm 182 metros (600 pés) de altura e cobertos de telas LED exibindo imagens de chamas dançantes (daí o nome). Um deles é um hotel com um restaurante no topo; A comida lá deve ser muito boa e com preços justos. Eu recomendo apreciar o pôr do sol sobre a cidade perto das torres de chama e depois ver as luzes LED da torre acender.

Dia 3 – fora de Baku

Saia da cidade para uma viagem de um dia para as quatro maiores atrações perto de Baku. Primeiro, são os vulcões de lama. O Azerbaijão é home to nearly a third of the world’s mud volcanoes, which form when pockets of underground gas force their way to the surface. They’re like geysers, but with mud.

Next are the petroglyphs in Gobustan, home to 6,000 rock paintings that are up to 40,000 years old. The well-preserved sketches display ancient populations traveling on reed boats, men hunting antelope and wild bulls, and women dancing.

Then visit Ateshgah, a temple that has been used as a Hindu, Sikh, and Zoroastrian place of worship (now it’s a center for Zoroastrians). Each room has really in-depth panels about the history of the temple, the pilgrims who visited, and the Zoroastrian religion. In the center of the complex is a flame representing God.

Finally, there is Yanar Dag (“burning mountain”), which is a natural gas fire that blazes continuously on a hillside. Marco Polo once described the land in this area as being on fire because of phenomena like this, but this is the only fire left. It’s kind of a disappointment, as it’s really small. It’s not worth the journey, to be honest, but it’s included in a lot of tours, so you’ll see it anyways.

None of the sites are too far from Baku, and can all be done in a day. a lot of leave around 10 am and get back around 5 pm. I suggest taking a excursion instead of going on your own, as it makes getting to these sites easy. only Ateshgah is reachable by public transportation. All the other sites will require a car. lots of people on Couchsurfing offer to rides too. A full-day excursion will cost about $40 USD and include lunch.

Days 4 & 5 – Lahij
Take a three-hour bus to Lahij (pop. 900) in the Caucasus Mountains (lots of day excursions come here because the town is popular for copper wares — you’ll hear the clang of metalwork throughout the day). On your way, you’ll wind through the mountains, over bridges, and along a road so narrow you’ll feel like you’re going to fall off before you reach the town. When I was there, the road was partially out because of heavy rain and I was not a fan driving the narrow, gravel road to town!

Mas valeu a pena!

Lahij is beautiful, with cobblestone streets, panoramic views of the valley, and old locals sitting in the town square eyeing the tourists that wander past on their way to hike for the day. There’s not much to do in Lahij itself. OK, there’s a tiny museum that takes five minutes, and you can ride a horse or shop if you want, but the real reason to visit is to go hiking. There are a lot of trails in the mountains around town, and it’s best to ask your guesthouse or the vacationer office for information, as there’s no trail map. There are some ruins on the trail leading up from the nearby river and waterfall but be warned: it’s a steep 6 km up and the ruins (really just a wall) are easily missed.

Where to stay in Lahij:
Lahij Guesthouse – This virtual chateau has spectacular views of the mountains, a garden, and extraordinary wood interiors and patios. It’s a sensational place, and the owner Rustam is quite experienced and can book anything you want. The breakfast will fill you for days, and you can get an optional dinner each night (you must — it’s delicious!).

Days 5 (& 6?) – Sheki
From there, head to Sheki by means of public bus, a popular stop on the Silk Road, and see the old caravanserai (inn with a courtyard), which housed traders and merchants back in the day. built like a castle to secure merchants (high walls, one gate), it dates back to the early 18th century. Now, it’s a restaurant (skip it) and a hotel. Additionally, there’s a fortress and few churches in the old town fortress down the street from the caravanserai. all in all, you only really need a few hours to see everything in town.

Be sure to visit nearby Kis to see the Albanian church, which dates back to the fifth century and was restored with the help of Norwegians in the early 2000s.

Afterward, go to the Gelersen-Göresen ruins, which are a lot a lot more expansive than those in Lahij and supply some extraordinary views of the surrounding valley. I’d recommend taking a taxi there, as it’s an uneasy and not very picturesque two-mile walk on open and exposed road. Your motorist will wait (or might join you, like mine did).

Overall, you really only need a day for these sights. There’s not much to do, and the attractions aren’t that stellar. Sheki is a popular day trip from Baku and a weekend spot for locals, who head to the resorts located on the way to the ruins. The only reason I would stay longer is if you wanted to do some hiking and horseback riding in the area.

Where to stay in Sheki: Ilgar’s Hostel – Ilgar is an extraordinary host. This homestay is really basic. No A/C, basic accommodations, very basic bathroom. It’s cheap but you’re staying in Ilgar’s home with his family and he’s an awesome host, who speaks fluent English and knows everyone in the area. There’s nothing he can’t help with!

Day 7 – Back to Baku

Spend the day heading back to Baku to take pleasure in a lastnight in the big city before you head home.

What to See and do in Azerbijian: A Two-Week Itinerary

Want to spend some additional time in the country? Excelente! There are a bunch of other places worth checking out too. here are a lot more suggestions on what to see and do in Azerbijian if you’re staying longer:

Days 1, 2, & 3 – Baku

Follow the Baku travel plan from above.

Days 4 & 5 – Quba
Head north by bus to the mountain town of Quba for a cooler climate, old mosques, and standard carpets in beautiful alpine surroundings. There’s a lot of hiking here, too, and lots of people also visit Tenghi Canyon. You can also stop in Khinalig, a major Zoroastrian center, or Krasnaya Sloboda, the only all-Jewish town outside of Israel, populated by the Juhuro, or mountain Jews.

Where to stay in Quba: Hostel Bai Guba – A very basic hostel next to some hiking trails, this place also uses airport transfers. Dehne Ailevi Istirahet Merkezi is a slightly a lot more expensive option, but it’s an exceptional place to stay. There is a restaurant onsite and a really great garden and terrace.

Days 5 & 6 (& 7?) – Lahij

Follow my Lahij suggestions from above and spend another day or three hiking the mountains. There are some popular multi-day hikes in the area if you want to camp. A guide is highly recommended for longer hikes; your guesthouse or the vacationer office can set up one for you.

Days 7 & 8 – Sheki

Follow the travel plan provided in the above section and use your extra time for hiking or horseback riding!

Day 9 – Qabala

Once strategically located along the middle of the Silk Road, this dusty, old, not-so-small town now houses several ancient monuments, including a thousand-year-old defense tower, a 13th-century mosque, and a mausoleum. Take an early bus from Sheki and spend the night here. All the attractions are close together, so you can easily see the town in a day. There’s really nothing else worth sticking around for.

Where to stay in Qabala: Kahran Hostel – This is a newly opened hostel in a good neighborhood located next to some great cafés, bars, and restaurants. It’s a social environment and the staff is really helpful.

Day 10 – Ganja
Azerbaijan’s second greatest city dates back to the sixth century. There’s an attractive square near another caravanserai (similar to the one in Sheki), some standard churches, a very odd house made from bottles, and the tomb of Nizami Ganjavi, the country’s a lot of popular 12th-century poet (he’s kind of a heroi nacional). It’s a good stopover on the way south.

Where to stay in Ganja: Old Ganja Hostel – It’s located ideal in the center of the city, and the staff is friendly and helpful.

Days 11 & 12 (13?) – Lankaran

Before heading back to Baku, go south visit this sleepy resort town on the Caspian Sea. See the Old prison and Lighthouse (Stalin was actually a prisoner here for a while), visit the ancient bazaar, the 18th-century fortress, and the 19th-century mosque. You can spend a good day sightseeing here and then another on the beaches additionally south in Kenaramesha. If you have a lot more time, take a day trip to the Ghizil-Agaj state Reserve, which is home to about 250 bird species. You can take organized excursions from town.

Where to stay in Lankaran: Khan Lankaran hotel – There are not lots of hostel options in Lankaran, but this hotel is affordable and exceptionally cozy. The restaurant serves Azerbaijani and European food, as well as local drinks.

Day 13 – Head back to Baku before heading home.

***

Whenever I leave a place, I always ask myself: On a scale of 1 to 10, how likely am I to come back? I feel like I’m a 6 with Azerbaijan.
I loved my time there and, if I were in the region again, I would absolutely visit again to do some longer hikes I missed this time. but I don’t think I’d go out of my way to go again unless there was a compelling reason.

That said, I found the people exceptionally warm and hospitable. even though we couldn’t communicate a lot (outside Baku, English is not widely spoken), we pantomimed and communicated n